Saturday, August 21, 2010

Walking in thin air

For my last weekend’s activity in Yellowstone National Park, I climbed Electric Peak with Jillian and Kara. As the 6th highest peak in the park (at 10,969 ft and prominence of 3,389 ft), it was by far the most difficult hike/climb I’d attempted all summer and I didn’t even go to the absolute summit (though the other two girls did). It had become evident as the climb up the mountain progressed that I was not in any shape comparable to Jillian and Kara with one being a cross country runner and the other being a local and accustomed to the elevation. I got a headache and a little dizzy and stopped climbing about 50 feet from the summit. I figured climbing over loose rocks on a steep mountainside and not being steady on my feet was not a safe combination.

So, Kara and Jillian went on and I found a relatively flat spot, laid down, and slept! That nap was the quietest outdoors nap I have ever experienced. The mountain peak was absolutely silent apart from a few buzzing flies. There was hardly any wind which surprised me because when we climbed Mt. Holmes (which is almost as tall as Electric), we couldn’t really stand up straight because of the wind. What blew my mind is that we could see the Grand Tetons from the peak. Electric Peak is about 3 miles north of the park boundary and the Tetons are about 15 miles (That’s a very rough estimate) south of Yellowstone. This might give you an idea of how huge the Tetons are. It was an incredibly clear day when we first got up, but then storm clouds rolled in and we had to hustle down the mountain. We could also see the little town of Gardiner far below us and shiny specks that were cars driving through the valley. When the storm clouds rolled in, I think we would have been inside them if we had remained at the top of the mountain.

Our Electric hike was a two day ordeal. We hit the trail around 7 PM on Sunday night, Aug. 15, hiked about 2 miles down the trail and went another 2 miles off the main trail to our campsite. Faith, Jillian’s sister, spent the night with us, but decided not to do Electric as she had already climbed it a few years ago. She ended up doing a different hike that day. We packed up camp by 7 the next morning and began hiking soon after. Just after sunrise, we spotted two bull moose in the field below us! That brings my total moose count up to four with half of them not even seen within the park. Around 8, we reached the trail to get to the summit and Faith parted ways with Kara, Jillian and me. About a mile down the main trail, we hid our frame packs in the bushes and continued carrying our day packs. The trail was relatively flat for the first 7 miles or so until it reached the part where it climbs 3000 feet over 3 miles. To say the least, my Achilles tendons felt like they were going to snap on that ascent. I was by far the least physically capable of the three of us but Jillian and Kara were gracious enough to wait for me a lot of the time. So, we made it to the top (or mostly to the top for me), hung out for a bit, then started the descent which was almost as difficult as the ascent. We all made it down safely, minus one face plant by Kara (she was alright, though, just a bit dirty and scratched up) and were at our car by 6:20 PM. Our total mileage, counting the detour to our campsite, was about 24 miles. We could have omitted the camping and done it all in one day, but the camping part is so fun that we had to include it.

I’m really looking forward to coming back to Virginia and now that most of my friends have gone home, it’s gotten quite lonely. But, the herds are migrating now in preparation for winter (it seems early, I know) and that provides some entertainment. Today, a herd of bison has been hanging around in front of my dorm and they make much more noise than I ever expected. They grunt and groan constantly. They’re fun to watch, though, and to figure out the group’s social hierarchy. Sometimes a big male will suddenly start chasing a smaller male or female to keep it in line. The bison are surprisingly agile for such enormous creatures. I’ve seen a few herds of elk around, but none have come as close to the dorms as the bison have. While cleaning the cabins today, a mama black-tailed deer came strolling through with her two spotted fawns. They looked at me with some curiosity but continued on nonchalantly while munching on some grass. Of course, there are always the chipmunks and chattering ground squirrels that are everywhere. Marmots and pikas are a little less common to see, but not unheard of either. I haven’t seen a bear in the lake village for a long time now. Nobody that I know has ever seen a live mountain lion in the park. Jackalopes are the only animals that are legally hunted in the park. They’re so common, I’ve tripped on one late at night coming home from the pub!
shalom

Tuesday, August 10, 2010

Yellowstone has three seasons: Winter, Spring, and August

As the summer is winding down, my weekend activities have become noticeably less intense. Though I am a little disappointed that perfect opportunities for Epic Yellowstone Adventures are slipping away, I’m grateful as well because I’m provided with times for reflection and rejuvenation before heading back into the full swing of school in a few weeks. Don’t get me wrong, however, life here hasn’t been totally drab.

Two weekends ago (8/1), I and two friends, Molly and John, rented a motor boat from the marina and went out on the lake for an hour. I can’t speak for the other two, but I know that I thoroughly enjoyed myself that afternoon. The view of the hotel, the mountains and just the whole shoreline from the water was unlike anything I could have expected. The sky was clear and sunny and the air was warm. It was a wonderful day for boating. The next day, I drove an hour and a half to the small town of West Yellowstone (located 20 feet outside of the west entrance to the park) and visited the wolf and bear sanctuary. The sanctuary is basically a zoo of wolves and bears that either were abandoned as cubs, have been deemed dangerous to humans, or needed some safe place for recovery, etc., etc., etc. I wouldn’t recommend paying to visit the sanctuary because, if you spend enough time in the park, you’d see those animals in the wild. And, you’d see the same thing at any zoo you visit. Fortunately, being an employee in the park, I got in free of charge.

Later that week, I actually got to visit with a friend from high school who is working in the Tetons this summer. On Saturday after work, Eric and I joined some of my friends at the Boiling River in the northern part of the park. The water of the Boiling River is heated by thermal features a mile or so away in the Mammoth village. Basically, it’s a natural hot tub. It’s better than a normal hot tub, though, because occasionally you’ll get hit by a cool and refreshing wave of water. The river starts somewhere inside the park and is joined just outside the Mammoth village by runoff from the hot spring. We relaxed in the shallow water for an hour just a few feet from where the hot and cold water join forces. That Monday, Faith (Jillian’s sister) and I drove out to Cody for an afternoon spent in a relatively civilized region. We had a good time despite being caught in a vicious thunderstorm, which included hail, while driving over the mountains. I think that every single time I’ve been to that town, I’ve witnessed a thunderstorm. Cody has a fun shopping scene downtown and we spent a good portion of our time looking around the little shops and buying a few things here and there. Cody also has a Wal-Mart—which is wonderful. Before this summer, I never would have thought I’d be grateful for a Wal-Mart. It’s easily the biggest and most dominating building in the town. But, being a super Wal-Mart, it has everything I could possibly need for 3.5 months in (virtually) the middle of nowhere.

Believe it or not, it’s starting to get cold here again. I think we witnessed a solid 4 weeks of “summer heat” at the lake. On Sunday, I spoke with a woman who says that the park tends to see snow near the end of August. This is a little surprising (and maybe a little disappointing too) because the wild flowers are out in full force and I’d hate to see them freeze. I won’t be here for the most drastic changes anyways, so I won’t worry about it. More evidence of changing weather is that we’ve had thunderstorms nearly every day so far this month because the warm weather is clashing with the cold weather that’s starting to settle again. I really don’t mind the storms, though, because they provide phenomenal cloud viewing and amazing sunrises and sunsets. I also simply enjoy listening to thunder. I woke up this morning to a huge crash of it around 6:30 AM. Finally, my co-workers are starting to go home to head back to school. Some, however, such as my roommate, have chosen to take a semester or two off of class and extended their contracts. Many are now staying until the park’s closing date of September 28.

It seems that I might be spending two nights in Bozeman, MT before catching my flight home. This is so because of when the busses that shuttle people between the park and Bozeman run. If everything works out to plan, I’ll be riding up there on Aug. 23 and then getting a taxi to the airport on Aug. 25. I really don’t mind this, though, because I’ve heard that Bozeman is a neat town that deserves some exploring.
Shalom!

Sunday, July 25, 2010

One month until I'm home!

I’ve officially been in Yellowstone for over two months now. This means I’ll be home in one month precisely. I’m one of the last college student employees to leave for home, so I’ll be a little lonely for about a week. Oh well, all the more reason to enjoy everything now while I can! It’s been a while since I last blogged; my (roughly) weekly updates have been nonexistent. My only explanation for this is that the less novel everything becomes, the less urge I have to tell about it. But, I'll make up for it here.

The Monday after my last entry, I and a large group of friends hiked Mt. Holmes in the northern-ish part of the park which totaled at 19 miles round trip. It was a moderately easy hike for the first 8 miles or so while we approached the actual mountain, but then it climbed very steeply for the last mile. The trail was loose rocks and there was a lot of wind. In fact, the wind was so strong that while on the side of the mountain (not quite at the top) it nearly blew me off the trail and down the slope. At the top, I put my entire body weight into the wind and didn’t move anywhere. We ate a very cold lunch, appreciated the mind blowing view, used the outhouse (yes, there was an outhouse on the top of the mountain), took a few pictures, and then headed back down to normal wind speeds and warmer air temperature.

The next day, July 12th, I went with some friends to the Grand Prismatic hot spring in the Old Faithful village. We walked along a gravel walkway and then took a short hike up a hill to see the Grand from above because if you don’t see it from either above or right next to it, you really can’t appreciate anything about it apart from the strong sulfur smell. We weren’t very high up and there was a good bit of steam, but its brilliant colors were still visible. While driving back from the Grand, the sky was weirdly hazy as it is sometimes at Old Faithful (perhaps because of all the weird stuff in the air from the thermal features) so the sunset was incredible. Pictures are up on picasa. I actually ended up returning to the O.F. village a few times that week for various reasons (all just for fun), because it’s only about an hour from the lake.

On Sunday, July 18th, we took a hike to see a hot spring named Tomato Soup. It is called thus because it looks exactly like a large bowl of Tomato Soup sitting in the ground. The hike was an easy 3-4 miles roundtrip, but there is no trail, so a friend of ours who had been there previously, was our guide. If I remember one thing about thermal features from this summer, it will be that they can be any shape, size, or color. The colors, especially, never cease to amaze me. The names, as well, are interesting and make me wonder what on earth the people were thinking when they named half of the features.

On Monday, I and two friends attempted to hike the 16 miles from the Lake village to the Canyon village along the Howard Eaton trail. But, we found out about 1.5 miles into our hike that everything is closed 6 miles in due to a pack of wolves who have set up a den near the trail. And, since wolves are pretty much worshipped here, everything within 5 square miles of a den is shut off to any human travel. So, the three of us ended up hiking just 3 miles in on the Howard Eaton trail and then 3 out again. Our turning point was an overlook onto the LeHardy Rapids in the Yellowstone River which comes out of Lake Yellowstone. I really enjoyed the hike. We passed through fields, live forests and forests that were recently burned by fires. The burnt forest was quite pretty because colorful wildflowers and grass are now growing out of the blackened tree trunks, stumps, ash, and dirt. We also saw quite a few helicopters carrying supplies to firefighters because there is a fire currently burning about 7 miles from the lake. What I’ve heard is that because it was naturally started, the NPS (or whoever is taking care of it) is just trying to keep it away from guest facilities. I think it started on a beach somewhere along the lake. People here aren’t worried about it at all because it’s small and controllable—at least so far it is.

I worked the rest of that week and then left Friday evening for a back country camping trip with three friends of mine. We hiked about 8 miles in and set up camp. Due to work schedules, however, we didn’t start the hike until 8 PM and, with heavy backpacks, didn’t get to our site until 11. We had headlamps, though, and a full moon, so it was a good night hike. The trail was an easy one as well and we saw zero wildlife. At one point, we forded the creek, but that was before it got dark. The water was nearly freezing, fast moving, and the bottom was slippery rocks of all sizes. If you ever need to ford a river or creek, I highly recommend using a stick for balance because I know that I would not have been able to get across without a stick. It saved my life I’m sure. Well, it wasn’t quite that drastic, but it at least saved me from getting very wet and cold and possibly losing my entire backpack. Speaking of my backpack, I’m finished with external frames. The one I’m using from home is at least 15 years old and it just doesn’t work for me. It creaks and is awkward on my hips and shoulder blades. If I don’t get a new frame backpack here, then I will in Virginia because I definitely intend to do more backpacking in the future. (Appalachian Trail next summer?) Overall, backpacking was an excellent experience. The canyon we hiked through (we went from Hellroaring Creek to the Black Canyon) was beautiful and, most importantly, the mosquitoes were not quite as ruthlessly murderous as they have been on other hikes in the park.

Sunday, July 4, 2010

What are men compared to rocks and mountains?

If you’re ever given the opportunity to choose between rafting the Snake River or the Yellowstone River, I recommend that you choose the Yellowstone River. But, then again, it also depends on the water level of both rivers and how far you go. I rode the Yellowstone on Monday, June 28th and we went for 18 miles so it took both morning and afternoon. The morning ride was smooth and a little slow, but it picked up a lot after lunch when we went through the canyon and over class 4 rapids. What made the day even better was that the ride was free because one of our group has a friend who works for the company we went with. The late afternoon and evening after the ride, we spent in Gardiner, Montana at the house of a support staff member for the Christian ministry in the park. We ate hamburgers, played some volleyball and frisbee, and then did a little swing dancing.

The next day (Tuesday), I and a few buddies woke up early (4:30 AM) and hiked to watch the sun rise. Despite the trillions of mosquitoes, it was a beautiful view over the lake and Absaroka Mountains. We hiked an easy mile to a lookout point, watched the sun rise, swatted mosquitoes, took some pictures, swatted some more mosquitoes, took some more pictures, swatted even more mosquitoes, and then did the other mile of the hike back to our car. Starting that Thursday, I spent a few days with Jillian and a few friends from Lake at her parents’ house in Jackson, WY. It was a really relaxing and enjoyable time. We saw a couple of world cup games, took quite a few naps, ate delicious food, went shopping in town, and of course we hiked in the Tetons. On that hike, we (5 people total) went 13 miles through Paintbrush Canyon and it was perfect weather with a magnificent view at the top. Our total elevation climb was around 2600 feet. While on the way down, we encountered a black bear on the trail, but he got out of our way real fast. There were a lot of mosquitoes as well, but those were only a nuisance at the lower, warmer elevation where there wasn’t still 2+ feet of snow on the ground. After the hike, we all went to pizza at a local place called Dornan’s that has a spectacular view of the Tetons. The next day we walked around town. The shops in Jackson are a lot of fun—as is the town itself. There’s this central park that has four archway entrances made entirely of hundreds of deer and elk antlers. Since the National Elk Refuge is right next to Jackson and it’s not in a national park, it’s easy AND legal to collect antlers here. Or, at least the Boy Scouts have permission to do so. On Saturday evening, our friends from Singapore who were staying with us made dinner for everybody. It was tasty, authentic, home cooked Singapore/Chinese food made without any reference to recipes. We (the Americans in the group) were all very impressed. Because I had to work Sunday (today), I hitched a ride home late Saturday evening with a friend who just came to Jackson for the day on Saturday. I had ridden down in Jillian’s car, but they were all staying for another day or so because they didn’t have to work.

It’s been pretty easy to forget about the real world while I’ve been out here. But a few instances lately have brought me (and I’m assuming those around me) back to reality. First, my roommate’s grandma passed away a few days ago. Second, a friend of mine just found out that his 26 year old sister is dying of cancer. He’s going home in a few days. Third, another friend of mine just found out that her good friend (from a long time ago) has leukemia and she is going home to be with her for the remainder of this summer. A lot of people come to work at Yellowstone as a means of escape from the heaviness of their lives, but when it comes down to it, there really is no escaping after all. At least, not on this earth.

Wednesday, June 23, 2010

:)

So, I just realized that you all have been leaving comments on my blog. I’m sorry for not responding to them. I’ll do that as soon as possible. The internet is best at the crack of dawn, so I’ll get up tomorrow and do that. Unless, of course, I inadvertently turn off my alarm again tomorrow morning and sleep in like I did this morning. I’m proud (actually I’m not at all) to say that I got up and got to work today in 6 minutes! I woke up at 7:57 and clocked in at 8:03. That won’t be happening again. But, I’ll blame my sleepiness on the tiring day I had yesterday.

I went white water rafting on the Snake River yesterday afternoon near Jackson, Wyoming! It was a great trip. We traveled 8 miles (took about 1.5 hours) and the rapids were class 3 and below so it wasn’t the most challenging ride, but it was still fun. The water was super cold, but I got in for a second anyway. Don’t worry, we all rented wet suits and booties (shoes) so as to not get hypothermia. I rode in a raft with a family from northern Italy and they speak German, Italian, and their native language which I don’t remember the name of. Apparently, only a couple thousand people in the world speak their language. By the way, Jackson is beautiful. It’s a very small town with a western theme and a lot of antlers artistically placed around. It’s situated just south of the Tetons—which are breath taking in their own right. I thought the Absarokas (the mountains at Lake) were incredible, but the Tetons put them to shame. Photo opportunities were sparse so I only got a few pictures of the Tetons from the car window. Jillian and I are spending the weekend in Jackson in two weeks, so I’ll get some more pictures at that time. The evening after rafting, we ate Mexican food at an excellent local restaurant and then headed back to Yellowstone.

Last Monday (June 14th), I and some friends went on a 14 mile hike at a place called Agate Creek. It was a good hike. It was about 6 miles to the top of the grand canyon of Yellowstone and then we climbed down the edge of the canyon and ate dinner at the Yellowstone River. We saw plenty of bison and antelope along the way. At one point on the trail, there was a very young antelope curled up and completely still, except for its flaring nostrils, just 2 feet off the trail. It’s mother was visible half a mile up the hill watching us. On the way back to the trail head, our group of 10 ended up splitting into two groups of 5 because some people wanted to get back earlier while others wanted to take more time on the trail. I was one who didn’t mind either way, so I ended up with the last 5. We were about an hour behind the other group and we decided to relax and watch the sun set over the mountains near the end of the hike. It was such a vivid sunset that it turned the mountains pink! On the drive home, I saw my first Yellowstone fox. There was hardly any daylight left over and he was sprinting across the road. Fortunately, he made it safely because the drivers saw him and all the cars stopped to let him pass

On Saturday evening (6/19), my friend Gretchen invited me to join her in going to see the annual powwow in Cody, WY. The powwow ended up being a sort of competition, but I don’t understand powwows at all, so I can’t say what exactly was going on. Basically, all the Native Americans were decked out in their feathers, bells, head dresses, and bright colors and they danced to live drum/vocal music in the arena. There were quite a few spectators sitting and watching everything. Additionally, there were several tents set up with Native American jewelry and things being sold. I bought a pair of red, beaded, hoop earrings. By the way, on the way to Cody we saw two bears! One was a black bear (even though he was very brown) and the other was a grizzly. According to a park ranger I spoke with yesterday, this is a big year for bears. Usually the grizzly population hangs between 350 and 650 and the park is holding 650 right now. This is reason #48 why I don’t hike alone.

Friday, June 11, 2010

Oh, how sweet the sound of another person vacuuming!

There was much rejoicing around Lake when the rain finally cleared up enough to go outside and have a semi-dry time. On Sunday, I went to a morning church service put on by the Christian ministry here at the park. Monday was cloudy, but I still went hiking with some friends from the national park Christian ministry. We went on two hikes-in the morning we on the Beaver Ponds loop (5.1 miles) and then in the early evening, we joined ministry teams from the other locations and hiked up Bunsen Peak (4 miles). Bunsen Peak was really steep, but the view from the top was amazing. We reached the peak right when a thunderstorm was breaking loose in the valley below us. It was fun seeing the dark clouds, lightning and rain in the distance, but I got down that mountain as fast as I could when we realized the storm was actually coming our way. And by “as fast as I could,” I mean that I ran down almost 2 miles of switchbacks and downhill trail to the parking lot. I was with a friend and we both got soaked by the rain, but that only made it more fun. Then, that evening, we all went to the house of the pastor who runs the Christian ministry in Yellowstone and spent a few hours relaxing before driving the hour back to Lake. Their house is in Mammoth. Those two people are probably the most hospitable couple I have ever met. They welcomed 20+ ministry kids (and friends) into their home and fed them all and invited a few of them to stay the night because roads were closed in the park.

On Wednesday, I went to a disco dance party put on by the employee pub. I went with Jillian and we met some friends there. We didn’t dress up in 70s attire, but we still had a lot of fun attempting to dance disco. One of our friends from Singapore was so excited for the dance that he said he planned to “dance his pants off.” Don’t worry—that didn’t actually happen, but he still had a pretty good time.

Tonight, there was a 3-on-3 volleyball tournament of Lake employees and my team won! This means we’re going to the Park-wide tournament in a week in Mammoth. The only reason I’m playing is because the rules require that a female be on the court at all times so some male friends of mine requested that I play with them. I had a fun time even though it was 45 F and we were playing on an asphalt basketball court. By the way, we are the Flying Bison.

Work is going well. I'm getting faster at cleaning rooms and making beds. It's even better now that I know I can accept tips that are handed directly to me as a room attendant! I think I've made a good solid $4 in the past week in tips alone. Bed time.

Shalom!

Friday, June 4, 2010

Rain+days off work with out friends=cabin fever

It’s been a cloudy week at Yellowstone. In fact, it’s been raining and/or storming on my days off and relatively nice while I’m inside cleaning rooms. It’s actually raining quite steadily at the moment. That hasn’t stopped me from going out, though—at least for the most part. Last Thursday (5/27), Jillian, I, and two friends named Mike and Michael went on a hike called Osprey Falls. The trail head is an hour from the lake, but the hike is definitely worth the drive. It’s a 4 mile hike that culminates at an 800 foot waterfall and then there is another 4 miles back out. It’s mostly rolling hills until the switchbacks along the steep canyon walls that lead to and from the waterfall and river. On the hike, we saw a few elk, a marmot, a few bison, and part of an elk skeleton consisting of its backbone and skull. While driving there, we saw a coyote and then on the drive back to the lake, we saw a black wolf! He was a couple hundred yards away so my camera wouldn’t have worked, but I got a good look at it through Jillian’s binoculars. There were a lot of people stopped along the side of the road photographing the animal with their supersized wildlife lenses.

The next night, a group of us were relaxing in the common room and realized we didn’t actually have much to do apart from get angry at the ridiculously slow internet. So, I suggested we make a blanket fort with our bed sheets and the available furniture and that’s what we did. It ended up being a lot of fun and quite a few people joined in our party.

On Saturday after work, Jillian, Emily and I went for a hike at a 2 mile trail called Storm Point. We ended up hiking through heavily falling snow which actually provided for cool picture opportunities. We did not see any wildlife, but while hiking through the woods, we definitely heard a pack of coyotes or wolves or something barking and yelping. That was quite exciting.

Since Angela went home on Wednesday (6/2) (for personal reasons), Emily, Max, Angela, and I went for one last hike together on Tuesday late afternoon. We hiked up the Elephant Back Trail through drizzling rain and trekked our way through knee deep snow at the mountain’s top. We were rewarded at the top, though, because the view reaches for several miles over the hotel and across the lake and we were able to see the clouds breaking up over the snowy mountains and the yellow evening sunshine falling on the ridges. We had to book it down the mountain, however, in order to get some hot food from the EDR before they ran out of it. We didn’t see any spectacular wildlife, but it’s amazing how different the forest appears depending on the weather of the day. It can change from totally dry evergreen to a rainforest like atmosphere to a (cold) tropical cloud forest to a snowy North American pine forest.

After dinner last night, Emily and I saw a mama grizzly and her cub up close. They were in the woods right next to our dorm and they crossed our path about 30 yards in front of us. It was really exciting, but there were so many people around that the two of them got out of there as fast as possible. Later on that night, I played softball for the first time in a few years. Since they need females to be part of the park league, Emily and I played (partially doing them a favor and partially because we wanted to). I surprised myself and actually hit a lot of the pitches thrown to me. It was a fun evening and I’m looking forward to playing again.
It’s lunch time. Shalom!